We get up about 6-ish, get ready for our desert expedition. Tomie drops us off at Ruwi Bus Station. Then there's a bit of a rush to find the bus to Al Mintrib, although there's still 15 minutes until it is due to leave. We find the bus, pay our 2.5R, and sit at the front so we can see when we get there. Its a three hour ride, and we're meeting the tour company guy at a Shell station we saw two days ago with Tahani. On the bus I watch the Jackie Chan film on the screen up front, while Taeko tries to sleep.

We arrive at the outskirts of Al Mintrib and head over to the Shell station, getting some drinks and sweets from the shop. Shortly afterwards a Jeep pulls up and its our contact. We drive out of town and off the road onto the sand. Passing several Bedouin residences, we stop at a tent for coffee and dates.

And then its onto the camels. Our guide doesn't speak much english, but he knows where to go. Our guide is on the first camel, and he has another camel in tow. Behind him is Taeko, on quite a large camel. I'm on the last camel, smaller than Taeko's.

camel train
camels in the desert
on the camels
taeko on the camel
baz on camel

The desert scenery changes quite quickly, from trees and shrubs to bare desert with the odd tree or small patches of grass, and then back again, depending on how the water table is accessible. In the distance we saw a classic mirage, looking like a shimmering lake in the heat. It disappeared as we approached.

thorn tree in the desert
small shrubs and trees
camel shadow

At one point some passing tourists in a 4x4 stop to take pictures of the Bedouin camel train. Which is actually us. So I take a picture of them taking a picture of us. I bet they didn't expect the Bedouin to be packing 6 Megapixels of Pentax *ist DS.

tourists taking pics of us

After two hours of this I was getting quite sore. My legs weren't meant to hang like this. I was glad I wasn't on the larger camel. I kept adjusting my position to try and get some relief. The desert scenery rolled on. We passed a desert holiday camp situated next to a giant red-and-white antenna mast. Over the next hill we were out of mobile phone range. By now I was also starting to get a bit sunburnt on my right leg as the sun was over that side of the camel. I had also drunk a bottle of isotonic drink and most of my Sigg bottle of water. I still had some cold water in a coolbox attached to my camel.

high dunes
our transport, the camels

At lunchtime the Jeep appeared and we walked our camels over to the only visible tree for some shelter during lunch. The camels sat and rested while we dined on fine food. The rest was a welcome break, and I stretched and flexed my aching limbs. I was also taught how to tie my shemagh, or gutra, around my head. And yes, I am wearing a 'perl' t-shirt with a camel on it.

camels resting over lunch
camel
lunch time in the shade

After lunch it was back on the camels and the Jeep drove off. We plodded on at the camel's steady pace. A couple of hours later it was agony again. Plus my camel was slow. Our guide gave me his stick to whack the camel when he was lagging behind. Occasionally my ship of the desert would have to break into a trot.

desert sand
desert dune
desert sand
sand and dunes

As the sun swung westwards the pain was getting worse. I was also now getting a bit saddle-sore as well as sunburnt and aching. I wasn't the best of company, but I tried to smile and talk to Taeko. I was constantly trying to take some weight off my dangling legs. Singing "99 bottles of beer on the wall" to myself was one way I tried to pass the time. Then I had another idea: to give myself half an hour between drinks of water from the coolbox. There were six packs of water, that would give me 3 hours, which should take us to the camp. I also had some more water in my Sigg bottle. I also rationed myself to a sweet on the 15 minute interval between half hours. On this system it would never be more than 7.5 minutes from some sort of treat.

Taeko probably noticed I was a bit more chirpy on the half-hours. I'd get a drink, shuffle about a bit, have a chat to Taeko, and then return to my quiet discomfort until the next break. Taeko, being more flexible than me, was quite happy on her beastie.

At one stage we headed up into the soft sands of the high dunes as the sun cast shadows across us.

dunes
dunes
dunes
dunes
camel train

Our guide stopped for a short break, and the sun was getting low above the big dunes to the west. I reckoned we had 30 minutes of daylight left.

camels resting
taeko resting
taeko resting
camels resting

And then, as darkness was approaching fast, we saw a light in the distance! Camp! We'd made it! We'd done 40km on the camels! Okay, so I was probably in the most pain I've ever been in my life that wasn't due to some medical condition, but I was happy! We'd spent eight hours on the camels!

arrival!

We were welcomed to the camp by a curious dog, and then with tea and dates, and then shown to our tent. No electricity here, just flickering paraffin lamps and candles. We were fed on wonderful vegetarian food with salad and dates.

dinner at bedouin camp

After dinner we walked off into the desert and lay down and watched the skies, making wishes with every shooting star. After a quick shower in the open-top shower units, under the stars, we went back to our tent for bed.